In Mantegna’s Camera degli Sposi pears are the main motif on the frescoed festoons. Pear growing in the Oltrepò mantovano is an ancient and noble tradition; orchards and gardens were especially dedicated to cultivating and grafting different varieties to get tastier fruit.
Cultivation of the pear tree in Mantua has a long tradition, but given the fruit’s delicate nature and the difficulty of storing and transporting it, distribution and marketing only developed at the beginning of the 1900s. Six varieties have been grown in the area since the Middle Ages, and all were recognised as Pera Mantovana IGP in 1998. (Protected Geographical Identification): each has its own cultivation period, so it can be found on the market throughout the year. The pear has many properties: it contains fibres that restrict sugar levels in the blood; it is low in calories, it contains fructose and is suitable for consumption by diabetics. It is diuretic, purifying and even an antidepressant! It is best eaten when fresh and at room temperature with honey and cheeses, and is the main ingredient of mostarda mantovana, along with campanina apple and quince.
The pear, like the apple, and the medlar, is defined as a “false fruit” or accessory fruit, as it is the central part, the core that comes from the fertilisation of the flower and, therefore, constitutes the real fruit, while the flesh that we eat is the flowering receptacle.
mostarda mantovana
is prepared with a single type of fruit (pear, campanina apple or quince) cut into pieces, or thinly sliced.
mostarda cremonese
is prepared with mixed fruit left whole, or cut into large pieces.
When mustard and sugar were sought after ingredients, mostarda was prepared directly by apothecaries, stored in small vessels and reserved for the dining tables of lords. Today, it is the essential ingredient for pumpkin tortelli and goes perfectly with boiled and roasted meats, savoury cheeses and cured meats.
INGREDIENTS FOR 6 PEOPLE • 1 KG pear / campanine / quince • 400 GR sugar • 6 drops of mustard
Cover the sliced fruit with sugar and leave for 24 hours. Boil the resulting syrup , pour it over the fruit and let that rest for a further 24 hours. Repeat the draining, boiling and resting processes for 3 days. On the fourth day, take a large casserole, having first weighed it, and put the fruit and liquid inside. Let it boil over a low heat for a few hours, making sure that there is always liquid in the casserole and that the fruit doesn’t stick. Let it cool, weigh everything and add six drops of hot mustard for each kg of pear. Mix well and let it rest for a few hours. Transfer the mixture to jars and let it develop for 30 days. The mostarda will keep for a year. Try it with Parmesan!